P3Steel Version 2.5.1

This page has my updated frame design. A page with a bill of materials for this build is here.

I’ve had some difficulty getting the axis of my He3D prusa aligned and square. I’ve got it ok now trimming it up with playing cards but I’d like it to be more ridged. I’m also still not satisfied with the squareness.I also need a more rigid chassis to print faster.

I came across the P3Steel design, which is a Prusa i3 derivative where the entire chassis is fabricated out of laser cut stainless steel. This as the advantage that the cutting is precise and material is stiff. I’ve been looking to get a P3steel frame fabricated. I like the idea particularly that in cutting the Y-axis and Z-axis on the same piece of steel they are forced to be 90 degrees to each other.

Looking on the RepRap wiki there seems two design trees 1.0-2.x which started from the original Leonardo design and was modified by AndrewBCN. The v. 3. and v. versions differ in that the y & z axis are no longer made from one piece of steel. I think the 1-2.x versions is better for that reason.

I’m not seeing anyone selling just the frame in the US. One version can be ordered from Orballo Printing out of Spain for 75 euros. I’m not sure what version it is based off of. Also, I want to mount the power supply and Arduinio/RAMPs controller on side of the frame for a more compact build. I also want mounting points for a bowden extruder and the lcd screen. So I’ve been working on modifying these changes into v.2.5 with solidworks.

Here is a jpeg of what I’m calling version 2.5.1. The detailed jpeg shows the changes I made. Namely, I made one of the side support plates larger. I’ve added mounting points for

1. Arduino/Ramps

2. Power Supply  24V. MW SE-350

3. 3x Greg’s Wades Extruder reloaded. Originally I put it in so they could be mounted side ways but then I added holes so at least one could be mounted vertically. The mounts are for a bowden configuration.

4. Drill whole for auxiliary boards like a relay board for the bed.

5. Drill wholes for mounting the LCD on right panel.

6. Drill holes for additional mounting points.

P3 Steel V. 2.5.1
P3 Steel V. 2.5.1

The above enumerates these changes. I also have some dimensions added for reference.

Here it is in some more complete file formats Ver.2.5.1.DFX and ver2_5_1.pdf. Here is my p3steel 2.51 Solidworks Files

 

10 Comments

  1. I leave in Quebec, QC, Canada I want to build a P3Steel for myself.

    I would like it to be your 2.5.1 version for the same (1-2.x) structural integrity reason you mentioned in your post.

    It very hard to get our hands on 3mm steel in Canada.

    Would you be interested in me helping convert your 3mm plan into a 11 gauge one ?

    1. I am in Denver Colorado and had the same issue. I just had my cut in 11 Gauge steel as it is pretty close to 3 mm. It went together just fine. I’m looking at the receipt right now it it was “of Steel Cold Rolled A36 Ga. 48″ x 120”.

      I think your going to have a hard time getting someone to do the laser cutting for you for a reasonable price. I was lucky and got a fabricator in town to do it for me for $120. My other quotes were ~$700. You might want to consider just buying the 2.5 frame off ebay for $100 and punching the additional mounting holes for the PSU and RAMPS board into it with a drill press. You’re not going to have the square footage on the left for additional bowden extruders through.

      I need to post some more about it. My build out is essentially finished. I have a decent protein list for you too.

  2. Hello Greg,

    Thank you for your files and the post you made about you build.

    Man your a fast writer. I never thought you could do it in such a short notice.

    ~$700 those guys were crazy. My SWAG is that they did not want doing business for your small metal volume.

    A friend of mine told me that the shop deals a lot with a Metal supplier who can also laser cut the purchased sheet metal for a small extra charge. That extra remains to be known but I’m hopeful that I should able to get my parts for a reasonable price.

    My plan is to either combine your design or the madrid3DPrint Probot with the Toolson’s printed parts, a 120 volt heated bed and a E3D Chimera or Kraken extruder.

    It’s still a design in progress. I did not made my mind regarding the electronic and the firmware yet.

    I still have to compare both schematics to pick the one that will ease the realization step.

    Best regards

  3. Hello,

    I´m Hugo from Orballo Printing. Our Prusa Steel version is based on v2.5. Now it is fully compatible with 2 bowden extruders. One on each side. You can mount the PSU and the arduino/ramps on side of the frame.

    1. Great to hear. I often refer people to you guys because your price for frames priced at ~$100 is way less than cutting it yourself.

      Did you published your latest P3Steel frame designs somewhere? I hope my version inspired the latest changes into what you are offering.

  4. Hi, I want to upgrade my Prusa i3 clone with a decent steel frame. Yours has all the mounting points I’d ever need. Unfortunately, the link to the DXF file is broken. Could you check it if you have some time left?

    1. Hi rmimoun,

      I guess I didn’t link that correctly when I put up the first version of this article. I’ve updated the link to the dfx file and it is working now. Thanks for pointing that out.

      Of note, if you do cut my version of this frame, the holes for the Arduino/RAMPS aren’t perfect. You can get it mounted though using the bracket I have for mounting on the BOM page.

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